Scandinavian burial, and a little cabin on the coast.

Day 6 – 225km mark.

After packing up my tent and other effects at Lūrmaņu avots, I started to make my way back to the coastline to stay the night in Upesgrīva.  However, there was no way I would even consider doing that with taking a little detour to a place called “Bīlavu velna laiva”.


The “velna laiva”, or “The Devil’s Ship”, is an ancient burial place protected under Latvian law.  It is believed to have been constructed by Scandinavian settlers in the area some time between 750 and 950 BC.  The tradition involved burying their dead in a grave site that was fashioned like a ship.  Similar burial sites can be found throughout the Scandinavian peninsula, but this particular site is unique in Latvia.  Let’s take a look…

“The Devil’s Ship”

The Scandinavian people have had a long association with Latvia over the centuries.  Indeed, Latvia’s capital city, namely, Rīga, was once the largest city in the Swedish Empire.  Latvia has been part of quite a few empires over the years.  Not usually by choice, might I add.

Let’s move along.  From the burial site I made my way back to Valdemārpils where I got onto a 15km stretch of road that would take me to Vandzene.  Though I like to focus on the positive, I have nothing positive to say about that road except that it took me to where I was going.  The road surface was shocking.

Upon arriving in Vandzene, I took the P127 to Upesgrīva where I stayed in one of the most charming little rented cabins you could hope for.  I wish I could live there.

Rented cabin on the premises of “Bērzlejas”.

If you’re ever in need of a place to stay while making your way up the coastline of the Gulf of Rīga, I can thoroughly recommend this cabin.  It has everything you need and the married couple who rent it out are very nice people.  My bedroom was upstairs, while downstairs features a lounge area and kitchen, as well as bathroom and toilet.

Oh, there are a couple of absolutely beautiful dogs living on that property.  One of them, in particular, is super friendly.

The next day, I packed my gear to make my way to Kolka, where the Gulf of Rīga meets the Baltic Sea.

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