Day 3 (and 4) – 142km mark.
After 142km of cycling since leaving Rīga, I realised that Talsi serves more noble purposes than just pizza, so I decided to stay here for two nights.
Damn, Talsi is one picturesque little gem. It’s known as The Green Pearl of Courland. The town is absolutely “postcardy”. In a flat country like Latvia, Talsi is a rather hilly place, with some pretty lakes within the municipal boundaries. Talsi has been inhabited by humans at least since the 10th century.
Of course, I achieved my primary goal in Talsi, choosing to have the “pica ar gurķu mērci” at Stenders. For those who might ask, the green paste on the pizza below is some kind of gherkin relish. This pizza was both tangy and spicy. Best of all, there was no pineapple on it. I happen to think that pineapple is a dessert fruit that has no place on pizza. You will never convince me otherwise!
The author and his precious pizza (below)
While in Talsi, I discovered another pleasing surprise: a quaint little pub called “Alus dārzs”. That, of course, means “beer garden”.
Inside Alus dārzs…
Here I was able to enjoy beer at a very low price by the standards of Rīga (where it’s already ridiculously cheap compared to my native Australia). Furthermore, they make a really nice karstvīns, which is wine served as hot as tea, usually with some cinnamon sticks and cloves in it, as well as some slices of orange. People may talk about “comfort food”. Karstvīns is a comfort drink.
Notwithstanding my love of this little town – a place to which I might very well retire one day – Day 5 eventually arrived, Saturday 1st June, and I peddled out of town to head towards a place in the forest near Lube called Lūrmaņu Avots, where there’s a spring. I would be camping in the forest that night.